What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

I modified that because opening the clamps directly on the inside of the panel or on the airbox is a job for a gynecologist or internist 🥵
Indeed. Now, to be honest ...
I've removed the top closure panels, both sides.

All started when one started to come off anyway (Have you noticed how dreadful the plastic welding is? Jeez ...)

Another plus point: it's made a mighty improvement to the engine cooling as well - which I didn't expect.

Form fairing panel.jpg
P.s Don't tell Piet. He'll just say it's yet more evidence what a POS these bikes are ...;)
:D
 
Thinking of removing the middle rows of teeth on both these items - is there a secret method? Cast iron clutch sprocket is easy (but messy) and carbide lathe tools won't like those intermittent teeth whacking the shaez out of them. Primary teeth are hard as - can only think mounting the angle grinder on the tool post as an option (when you don't have Red up the road :cool: ).
Quentin,
I put the gear in the lathe and while spinning I removed the teeth with the angle grinder (messy, very messy) and once through the hardened steel I did the rest with the regular cutting tool.
 

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Funny you should ask (two chains) Piet - I realised I'm using one of Andy Chain's Iwis duplexes I got from Red. So I'll probably go down the route you have. I looked at the setup and decided like you that the outside row is the one that should go.

Some more fun with drills ... another 4 am in the workshop episode - well, it is now that daylight saving started at midnight!!

Thanks must go to Mr Todd for sending me pics of his lightening work on a triple, which I pretty much translated for a twin. Apart from the fact it's rotating mass, I like the superior lubrication it offers.

The actual weight loss is negligible, but when it's rotating it's a different story. Not all easy work - some of the stuff drilled onto odd angles took forever to mark up and i ended up doing it with a hand drill. The flat stuff I just did with the Emco indexing jig held on the drill press with a vice.
 

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Quentin,

The clutch basket benefits far more from balancing than lightening, I think I had to find about 20gr. to remove in my triple basket. Started by machining the outsides straight and even, not much left to do after that. Stuff a rag into the inside to keep it from vibrating.

piet

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I made a dummy axle to mount it on the crank web balancing jig we have at OCT, it's in the background of the pic. The knife-edged wheels run on ceramic ball bearings, it can show up an imbalance of less than 2 gr., next to no friction to be overcome.

piet

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Quentin,

The clutch basket benefits far more from balancing than lightening, I think I had to find about 20gr. to remove in my triple basket. Started by machining the outsides straight and even, not much left to do after that. Stuff a rag into the inside to keep it from vibrating.

piet

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Veeery interesting, Piet. I have been wondering about that - I know that trying to centre the drum on the indexing tool for drilling was not easy, as the dial gauge was all over the place. I'll have to see if I can mount the drum in my little Emco. At least it spins at something like half crank speed.

'is that your works motor in the pic?? No primary chain tensioner thread whatsoever and that double slipper setup. Amazing. I like the drilled oil pump driven gear - less weight there means less backlash. I'll see if my 8mm carbide bit can trouble mine.
 
Veeery interesting, Piet. I have been wondering about that - I know that trying to centre the drum on the indexing tool for drilling was not easy, as the dial gauge was all over the place. I'll have to see if I can mount the drum in my little Emco. At least it spins at something like half crank speed.

'is that your works motor in the pic?? No primary chain tensioner thread whatsoever and that double slipper setup. Amazing. I like the drilled oil pump driven gear - less weight there means less backlash. I'll see if my 8mm carbide bit can trouble mine.
Yep.

The oil pump gear is soft, a HSS bit is quite adequate, done a couple of those as well. And while I was at it...

adding lightness.JPG

All this is actually in (ex-) JLOs carbon triple, but my own is much the same.

piet
 
I went with 8 holes in my primary - apart from shedding a few grammes, they sure are useful for rigging up a simple holding tool for the Jesus nut. Obviously I went for twin simplex chains...

Laverda Jota drive primary crank sprocket (7).jpg
 
I went with 8 holes in my primary - apart from shedding a few grammes, they sure are useful for rigging up a simple holding tool for the Jesus nut. Obviously I went for twin simplex chains...
The Iwis double row seem to be the go these days (very nice looking chains) - but that's the prob with machining off a row; once you do it, there's no chance to use alternatives - either 2 x singles or 1 x duplex - no more triplex. I'm tossing up whether to machine one row off ... or not.

I spent a few hours setting up the clutch drum for machining and I can see why they are out of balance - took quite a bit off the heavy side before I got a clean cut right across the outer on the two different sections. Initially on max RPM the vibes were bad - after machining, nice and smooth - haven't got a balance facility - good enough now for half (or less) than crank speed; not sure of the primary ratio - and too lazy to check.
 
Quentin,
do two single chains fit directly adjacent rows of teeth? IIRC, the middle row was left free with single chains set-up, or later models had two narrower rows of teeth.

But you are right in the point that once you have removed the third row of teeth by machine, you have no other choice than the duplex.

Cheers,
Jo
 
I've been using duplex for ages and sprockets stay as they are, chain on the two inner rows of teeth.
I wouldn't go back to two single chains. Noisy and impossible to quieten by tensioning.

Paul
 
Quentin,
do two single chains fit directly adjacent rows of teeth? IIRC, the middle row was left free with single chains set-up, or later models had two narrower rows of teeth.

But you are right in the point that once you have removed the third row of teeth by machine, you have no other choice than the duplex.

Cheers,
Jo
No. The duplex does. Only the very last RGS/1000SFC had narrow-spaced teeth rows, especially for 2 single chains.

Although triplex chains are still available, they might become rare in the foreseeable future as their applications are slowly but surely disappearing. There will definitely be no shortage of duplex though, as long as there's MB cars roaming the streets. ;) Quite possible the duplex is used in other automotive applications as well. Timing chains have replaced toothed belts in many of todays engines.

piet
 
The Iwis double row seem to be the go these days (very nice looking chains) - but that's the prob with machining off a row; once you do it, there's no chance to use alternatives - either 2 x singles or 1 x duplex - no more triplex. I'm tossing up whether to machine one row off ... or not.

I spent a few hours setting up the clutch drum for machining and I can see why they are out of balance - took quite a bit off the heavy side before I got a clean cut right across the outer on the two different sections. Initially on max RPM the vibes were bad - after machining, nice and smooth - haven't got a balance facility - good enough now for half (or less) than crank speed; not sure of the primary ratio - and too lazy to check.
Worried now.
Does this mean that by drilling holes one runs the risk of unbalancing the clutch drum?
I have noticed that there are small machining marks on some outer sections of the drum, this presumably to balance the drum.
 
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