Laverda Jota Ownership, second time around. (ramblings)

Looks good. Yep, I'd agree the lower hole is a better option. I chopped the top hole and section off my DAM (non-doglegged) lever. Have you got the M8x1 stainless cap screw holding the extender for the clutch cable in place? I had to import the bloody things from the UK (cos I wanted stainless cap screws)! The head should fit neatly into the recessed hole.

And why are you close-up pics so clear?? My iPhone 6 seems to take crap blurry photos.
 
Or if you want to use the more mechanically advantageous upper hole, then file the cable abutment at a slight an angle to point it up a bit.

Try both holes as it is, to see which is preferred.

(Sorry if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs)
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Looks good. Yep, I'd agree the lower hole is a better option. I chopped the top hole and section off my DAM (non-doglegged) lever. Have you got the M8x1 stainless cap screw holding the extender for the clutch cable in place? I had to import the bloody things from the UK (cos I wanted stainless cap screws)! The head should fit neatly into the recessed
Click to expand...
Didn’t use the M8 because I have helicoiiled the case yet. So used longer bolt and nut as suggested above. Will do it properly after lockdown.

I didn’t use the M4 you sent either as it didn’t fit the billet piece - the whole in which was slightly elongated. Again I could drill it but haven’t got round to it.

Where is the rubber gator but supposed to go? Didn’t look right on the exposed cable at the arm end, compressed it goes skewiff.
 
Looks good. Not sure about others but I think the top hole will reduce my clutch throw too much and cause slight clutch drag (making selecting neutral a bit tricky - maybe not). The stepped M4 bolt will just provide a larger surface area and better wear characteristics than the all-thread M4 in there now. When you get a chance just drill it to 5mm (or whatever the correct size for that stepped M4 is).

You cable seems to bring the nipple block in closer to the adjuster thread than on my bikes (ie less gap). I haven't actually fitted the 'new' rubber boot to mine, but it's just a cosmetic thing to go over the threaded adjuster at the alloy bracket (which is billet, BTW - don't try to bend it!). If it squashes up and looks weird, just leave it out.
 
Having put the Nitrons back on the bike after best part of a year I decided to completely reset. With the minimum preload to get a workable sag and with a lot less damping than I have used in the past. Right away the bike felt more planted and the ride was better. The damping on the nitrons have much better valving than the Gazis and that’s easy to feel when you don’t set the bike up like a rock!
 
Did someone say suspension.I did some changes about a month ago just before the lockdown. I might do some exasizing around the block on Monday very technical I lubed the shock mounts to see if it becomes more complaint
 
Haha you lot! Front kicks a lot less with less preload. Need to get front and rear working in harmony but it’s close, just a couple of clocks away!
 
Bet those shocks have spherical bearings each end.Way less friction plus it's small movements are controlled by there rubber blader. One day a set of Ohlins might arrive for me
 
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