What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

CLEMTOG

Hero member
took the side stand (Bushman/Lawton/Jotajoe/Kawasaki) off the bike (TOG) and was horrified to see that the hole in the bracket has seriously elongated, I was fitting another stand which I had lengthened because the first was always a bit short, that too has a worn bracket. Took the whole caboodle to a mate locally who turned a brass bush, bored the worn hole round (using the threaded side opposite it as a guide) , straightened the fork on a fly press and then machined an "end float" shim, in the meantime the second stand is on the bike and seems a tad too long (dammit) so that need a bit of adjustment, and a bush also. after only two days the first one came back with a pressed in brass bush and a shim just under 1mm fitted, and all is nice and tight but smooth running, I bet they were never like that from Kawasaki when new!, so refitted the original, made an extension for the second and dropped that round to Paul for his expert attention as well, very satisfying work and the turning/milling at a very reasonable cost of a score, well he is always borrowing my bike trailer!!!!
CLEM
 
Fitted the very latest 'Brake Lever Hand Span Adjustment Technology' to the SF0.  Much better now. AKA a tap washer...
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Gravelroad said:
To come to the ground of things, I then drilled and tapped 3 old float bowl plugs and equipped them with hoses to have looksee. Result can be seen.

Regards,
Stefan

U-tube manometers in action: I like that.
 
With help from the archives on both forums and emails with Grant I managed to fix a  " 2nd gear only " problem with my 750. While I was at it I fitted a very nice sump plate fit from Shaun Dampier ( excellent service to Northern California thank you ) , changed the oil and generally got to know the bike a bit better.

On the bike stand the fix seems to have worked. Will ride as soon as possible and fingers crossed all will be OK.

Proof if ever needed that the archives and forum are priceless.

ALEX
 
Gravelroad said:
Fuel consumption back down to 6.5l/100k, engine fully recovered to former strength. (bigthumb)
It seems adjusting the float levels with the carbs up is not accurate enough and might give erratic results. It is also much easier to ensure that both float bodies are on exactly the same level with the carbs taken off the engine.
Regards,
Stefan

Hey, Stefan, which of those levels is correct and approximately where on the (front) of the float bowl is that level when the carbs are in-situ?
thanks
AndyW 8)
 
Went for a spin out in the hills !!

Me mate Rocket says "we will try a couple of fire trails"......... that would be great as the Jota has always travelled well over dirt rds  8)

Well after we left the spot in the photo  :eek: :eek:  the track was more suited to a trials bike !!!
Surprise Surprise, Bugger me thats another discipline the Jota handled with aplomb  :D

Who says ya need to park up ya Jota and buy an Triumph Adventure bike....  Rocket !

Great day to be out n about  :)
 

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Well I did go riding on my latest 3C rebuild in the morning hangover and all :( :( :( :(
Then took the Bevel out after fitting a new clutch pack.
Oh those 900SS's are soooo good! particularly when the clutch is not slipping its tits off.
 

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AndyW said:
Hey, Stefan, which of those levels is correct and approximately where on the (front) of the float bowl is that level when the carbs are in-situ?
thanks
AndyW 8)

Hi Andy, the left one on the pic was at least close of being correct. Didn't check the level in situ at the front of the bowls. But I checked again the levels after re-adjusting the levels to 17.5mm with the carbs sitting straight up on the workbench, and found it exactly at the float bowl tops. Real level inside the float bowls probably a tad lower, as the hoses I have used for testing had only a internal dia of 2mm or so (capillary rise). I'd say if you check the levels in situ by this method, the levels should be at, or slightly below the splitting seam between float bowl and carb barrel, when the hoses are placed centered at the side of the carbs.

Regards,
Stefan
 
today we took the two girls out for a leisurely ride around QLD Raceway, have a race meeting in 15 days time so had to give them a bit of a run, never went above 9,500 rpm once 
needed to cure a small misfire in #63 we picked up in the last race at Philip Island and #86 just needed some heat cycles and quick run in on her fresh engine
top day, great time with Paul and MarkQLD at the track, 3 old farts playing with 2 old clunkers, does not get much better than that


MP Sept
 
Good on you boys - hope you enjoyed one another's company and that the day was productive.  Certainly looking forward to seeing you in Sydney in a couple of weeks time.

Yogi
 
Fitted some slightly lower bars to the Flying Bogie.

For this bike, I want to keep an upright relaxed riding position, but the GT/Police bars are so tall my neck gets a backward crunch when hitting a bump in the road. Needed to get my head's CofG forward a bit, over the neck.

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That first set of bars look like they belong on a chopper!

The new bars are a more sensible height, but you may find them uncomfortable for another reason.  They appear to be designed for dirt bike riding (lot of standing up on footpegs) because the grips are angled up at the ends.

While you're sitting at your keyboard, close your eyes and do the air motorcycle pose - put your arms out in front and make fists as if you're gripping an imaginary set of handlebars. Open your eyes and note the angle of your hands. That's the angle you want your hand grips to be.
 
Paul H said:
For this bike, I want to keep an upright relaxed riding position, but the GT/Police bars are so tall my neck gets a backward crunch when hitting a bump in the road. Needed to get my head's CofG forward a bit, over the neck.

Try a set of "Semi-Western"s as fitted to the late 60s early 70's Triumphs including the Hurricane. Might look a little wide at first but, as the grips don't force your elbows in are very comfortable, not too high and afford very good control of the machine..


I put a set of Darmah bars on my SF2 which transformed it in terms of ergonomics.
 
AndyW said:
Try a set of "Semi-Western"s as fitted to the late 60s early 70's Triumphs including the Hurricane. Might look a little wide at first but, as the grips don't force your elbows in are very comfortable and afford very good control of the machine..

Have you put Semi-Western bars on the MV yet?
 
One of the rules I took notice of when riding dirt bikes was to never have your bars tilted upwards, tends to lock the wrists and elbows, plus it looks naff ;)
 
Legs said:
One of the rules I took notice of when riding dirt bikes was to never have your bars tilted upwards, tends to lock the wrists and elbows, plus it looks naff ;)

One of the things I learnt riding my dirt bike to Cape York and back was to tilt them upwards, most of the trip was standing on the pegs.
 
chrisk said:
One of the things I learnt riding my dirt bike to Cape York and back was to tilt them upwards, most of the trip was standing on the pegs.


That's a long way/time to look naff, Chris.. ::) ::)
 
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