120 Clutch

C

Craig McWilliam

Guest
<DIV>Thanks again Piet.  So, a shim between the basket and the circlip as well?  Might be a tight fit.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I will call Andy about larger shims, as all the ones he sent for me were a smaller diameter to shim the outer basket.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Oddly, the screws he sent for attaching the cush drive were flat, but the holes are counter sunk??  I guess this is just a mistake.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Cheers</DIV> <DIV>Craig</DIV>
 
<DIV>Craig,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>You need a shim at both sides of the baskets' needle bearing.  The sharp ends of shafts' splines can eat the inside, the outside will rub through the circlip.......You may well need thicker/thinner shims to adjust correctly.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>The original rivets are countersunk and inserted from the inside of the basket.  To replace with screws, you must tap the eight rivet holes for a M6 thread.  Unfortunately, the holes are already a little large for M6, so take care.  The holes in the cush drive cover should be drilled to 6.2-6.5mm, the screws are then inserted from the outside of the basket.  Use a drop of Loctite on each screw.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>The clutch hub must be a tight fit on the shaft with no lateral clearance.  Hub movement will impair clutch action and could well cause strange noises.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Cheers,</DIV> <DIV>piet</DIV>
 
<DIV>I guess the problem is that I keep calling it "inner basket" when hub is better.</DIV>
 
<DIV>Hi Piet.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Ah - I think we are talking about different baskets.  Yes, I have the shims to stop the movement of the outer basket, but I am wondering about the inner basket?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>My inner basket has no side to side play but a small amount of "sliding play" along the length of the shaft.  Should I try to eradicate this?  I cant find any 28mm shims as they were not an OE part, I think.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Thanks for the explanation on the other points, thats very helpful.  </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Cheers</DIV> <DIV>Craig</DIV>
 
<DIV>Craig,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Do try to get nil end float at the hub, the tighter it is the better.  Once it becomes loose, shock loading can damage it and the cast-in steel insert can part company from the alloy!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>piet</DIV>
 
<DIV>Hi all - I am just fitting a later clutch basket to my 3C.  This has the little springs on the 7th and 8th plates.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Can I just check I am doing this right:</DIV> <UL> <LI>Two springs in total?</LI> <LI>Spring goes from 7th plate to 8th plate, stretched across the gap in the teeth?</LI> <LI>The two springs are fitted in opposite direction so they are pulling against each other?</LI></UL> <DIV>Many thanks!
Craig</DIV>
 
<DIV>Sorry,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Springs are fitted in the same direction, when the plates are rotated in relation to one another, the springs are tensioned!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>piet</DIV>
 
<DIV>and feel free to bin the springs, they don't really do all that much other than making fitting the clutch a bit more of a pain in the ass.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>supposedly "anti rattle". When I replaced the clutch pack in my RGS the new clutch pack didn';t have provision for the springs. Didn't notice any difference with or without the springs.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul LeClair</DIV>
 
<DIV>I also don't bother refitting the springs, although with the tool and a little practice it's not a big deal to do so. </DIV> <DIV>But I've never pulled a clutch out of a bike which did not have those two plates solidly stuck together, the springs being by then completely without purpose.  I believe in a brand new bike (sent for emissions/noise testing) they might have quietened things down a little for a while, but in the real world, after a few years use, they serve little if any purpose - and yes, make fitting the clutch drum a PITA.</DIV> <DIV>Cheers</DIV> <DIV>Steve B</DIV>
 
<DIV>Thanks Piet.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul, Steve - oh, dear - was expecting new clutch set up to be revolutionary improvment.  Have diligently filed teeth off plates and drilled holes as instructed by Andy Wagner and now hear its to no avail!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Incidentally, milling off the rivets heads off to seperate the clutch basket was quite easy with a ?2 end mill bit and a pillar drill.  Found that the last erson who had assembled it (and done a nicde job re-rivetting) had dealt with worn cush rubbers by slipping in small pieces of steel to fill the gap.  Also, back of sprocket fills with crap where its trapped against the clutch basket.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Cheers</DIV> <DIV>Craig</DIV>
 
<DIV>I have been wrong before!  ;-)  Look forward to hearing of your new miracle silentium clutch.  Sounds like fresh cush rubbers will also quieten things down significantly.</DIV> <DIV>Cheers</DIV> <DIV>Steve B</DIV>
 
<DIV>Hi all,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Are the spring tensioning tools still available to buy anywhere?  My clutch is original, low lileage and everything is in perfect condition, so I would like to try the bike with the springs doing the job they were designed for, though what that is I still find a bit of a mystery! . </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Andy</DIV>
 
<DIV>As I can get on with clutch rebuilding, I can see how the springs are going to make it a challenge to get the basket on!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Seperate question:</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Should there be a shim behind the clutch centre/inner basket?  I have a teensy bit of float once the circlip is back on but dont know if this is to allow for thermal expansion?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Cheers!</DIV> <DIV>Craig</DIV>
 
<DIV>Craig,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>When setting up the clutch plates for the basket, fit only 2 lightly tightened clutch springs into the pressure plate.  The plates can then be pushed to and fro without the tensioning springs being able to pull the rearmost plates together again.  Slip the basket over the plates to check everything is lined up, pull it and fit the rest of the springs and tighten up.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>There should be a shim either side of the basket, thickness may vary to get sprockets lined up.  The basket should have very little lateral clearance but should be able to spin freely.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>If the internal splines for the clutch plates ar OK in your basket, you will probably end up with a significantly quieter clutch!  The tensioning springs won't be able to quieten a clutch basket with knackered splines!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>HTH,</DIV> <DIV>piet</DIV>
 
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