Laverda 750 SF1 Oil Filter.

Lavermax

Lavermax

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Better OEM oil filter (wire metal mesh) or Hiflo 561 in your opinion for Laverda 750 SF1 engine ?
 

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Wire mesh better IMHO. The oil system is a low pressure / High(ish) volume design and any restrictions may cause the pump 'gears' to move oil very inefficiently.
 
As the "filter" is on the vacuum side of the pump, any additional obstruction can cause havok. I've seen quite a few destroyed engines where the stock mesh had been clooged, a finer mesh clogs easier...

If a filter is to be added, I'd put it on the pressure side of the pump.

piet
 
very strongly agree with Piet.
once the oil has drained to the sump, by gravity from all points of the motor, it has to "flood" into the inside of the (stock) mesh filter, from the height or depth of the sump capacity, although inside the filter will be under (a little) suction from the pump, I doubt that a paper filter will allow enough oil into the chamber fast enough, then the pump will not have a puddle to suck from = DISASTER, the oil pumps on stock SOHC 750's are already known to only provide marginal lubrication, if the bike is at idle for any lengthy period of time, what you are proposing will make this a lot worse, my own (at the time) 2 year old 750 suffered "squared off" cam lobes at 23,000 miles due to a lot of city riding.

Again, as piet, install the filter (if you must, there is no need) on the postive side of the pump, this is a stripped motor/ empty crankcase job, involving drilling tapping, plugging, machining, and even (depending) alloy welding. Not a task an average DIY'er would be able to do successfully, it is possible though and has been done.

paper filter in sump? .....Dont do it!

if worried, strip the motor, clean everything, including internal oilways and the crank slingers, measure, new piston rings, grind valves, valve springs, seals, gaskets, rebuild, and you will get 100,000+ kilometres from then, even if the original stuff (pistons, crank, bearings) OIL PUMP!!! is within wear tolerances.

CLEM
 
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Hi Lavermax - It is very important to remember our primitive Lav oil pumps are not positive displacement pumps (especially as thy wear). They do not 'pick-up' a some oil and absolutely move it to another place. These gear pumps certainly 'encourage' the oil to move, by creating pressure differential between inlet to outlet, but if we include manufacturing tolerances and the 40 years worth of wear, they can become very inefficient indeed. The wear is not just the obvious radial things (pivot axis and gear teeth) but also lateral - between the end flat faces of the gears and case/housing. If the pump is very badly worn, then the gears can spin in the oil puddle and hardly move much oil at all.
 
CLEMTOG said:
<snip> install the filter (if you must, there is no need)
Click to expand...
Nuff said.

(Personally, I'm still not persuaded that Geoff Baines wasn't right when he reckoned that the use of a modern paper filter in the Zanè bikes wasn't, at least partially, responsible for some of the problems those engines encountered ...)
 
I bet the Kawa has the filter after the pump, never seen anything other than strainers on the pickup.
SF could well use a filter after the pump to save filling the slingers, and catch all the nylon chips from the camchain rollers, but not an easy job to fit one.
I might use my blanked off oil cooler take-off points and fit one if I can sort it neat, as it absolutely does not need an oil cooler.
 
Tippie said:
I bet the Kawa has the filter after the pump, never seen anything other than strainers on the pickup.
SF could well use a filter after the pump to save filling the slingers, and catch all the nylon chips from the camchain rollers, but not an easy job to fit one.
I might use my blanked off oil cooler take-off points and fit one if I can sort it neat, as it absolutely does not need an oil cooler.
Click to expand...
Indeed and the Kawasaki uses 10/40w not 20/50w so quite a bit different.
 
Haggis said:
Hi Lavermax - It is very important to remember our primitive Lav oil pumps are not positive displacement pumps (especially as thy wear). They do not 'pick-up' a some oil and absolutely move it to another place. These gear pumps certainly 'encourage' the oil to move, by creating pressure differential between inlet to outlet, but if we include manufacturing tolerances and the 40 years worth of wear, they can become very inefficient indeed. The wear is not just the obvious radial things (pivot axis and gear teeth) but also lateral - between the end flat faces of the gears and case/housing. If the pump is very badly worn, then the gears can spin in the oil puddle and hardly move much oil at all.
Click to expand...
You have 40 year old Laverda's?
Mine are all pushing 50 or over it already.

Paul
 
CLEMTOG said:
dont you "NO" me Marxy, I will come and put your pipe in a body orifice that it is not inteneded for
CLEM
Click to expand...
I saw you coming Clem, that's why I gave up smoking 11 years ago.
image-oeuvre-la_trahison_des_images_ceci_nest_pas_une_pipe-1000-1000-83705.jpg

Paul
 
CLEMTOG said:
my own (at the time) 2 year old 750 suffered "squared off" cam lobes at 23,000 miles due to a lot of city riding.

CLEM
Click to expand...
I'd need to be convinced city riding was the reason for your lubrication starvation problems, Clem. My own SF1 spent many years as a commuter and my everything transport in Melbourne (a very large city with VERY hot summers and too many traffic lights) and at 65,000 miles my cams and rockers were still in good nick.

I'd suspect blockage of some kind due to studs fouling the oil feed to the head or gunk such as flakes from worn cam chain tensioner wheels blocking the rocker spindles.
 
well Pirahnha bro2
the motor got a complete strip at that time, because a hardened valve tip had come adrift and the valve cleance was right on the edge of the adjuster screws capability, I found the tip in the crankcase, and the valve stem had "flared" but was still operational everything was squeaky clean, and internally shiny, but squared off the cam was, it having had no owners other than me from new, an oil change every 1500 miles using (at the time) the straight 30 that was available for VW beetles/stationary air cooled diesels, same stuff, Castrol CRI30. No sludge dirt or debris was found, new rings were fitted as were valve springs and a new cam, I had the head ported before replacement, then all the seals and gaskets, it never missed a beat, but had ceased commuting journeys, (company car!) and was getting ridden hard two up for camping weekends at race tracks all over Europe mainly, it got stripped again at 36,000 miles for instalation into the (sort of) Egli frame kit that is still the case, this time the motor had some power inproving mods done including a 6C cam, which is a cock up as it doesnt realy work unless used with eletronica pistons, and vitally the valve springs, and head, it has never been run like this (so is coming out again) SFC exhaust etc etc, the second cam was unmarked, but it was still relatively low mileage. I will probably re-use it.
CLEM
 
6C works fine in all heads Clem, you just need to rev the nuts off it.
Otherwise, I think that there were hard chroming problems at Laverda at some times. Some bikes eat followers and cams, not others.

Paul
 
I have friends here who raced SF motors (a sidecar and a solo) with the hard chroming ground off the followers because they reckoned the system was asking for trouble, and they didn't eat the cams, had an enhanced oil supply though. It sounds like Clem had a cam that they forgot to harden. I will definitely be swapping the 6C out of my racer now that it is going onto the road.
Electronica SFC pistons in an SF head Clem?
 
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