Sachse ignition rotor

Lyndoneil

Junior member
Location
Towcester uk
After sorting out the SF2 's ignition woes last weekend ( it was wet) I decided to fit the Sachse electronica ignition to my 500, all has gone together very simply with no problems other Than I might need some NGK 5 ohm resistance plug caps.
Needless to say, it didnt run after fitting, followed the instructions, did the spark test, checked continuity, all good.
After reading another post on here (anyone that's fitted a Saches will understand what I mean) It states that you find TEC on the left cylinder, line the S mark on the rotor to the top stator the light comes on, and then turn the rotor anti clockwise until the N mark lines up with the stator, the light goes out, then tighten the grub screws and all should be good.

Well, for some reason the last part of that totally eluded me, it didnt matter how many times I reread the instructions, a form of blindness or word dyslexia prevented me seeing and understanding the last important detail.

Anyway, now better informed I attempted to turn the rotor to its correct position last night, but it's reluctant to spin easy.
I have read from other posts that Red Cawte (Redax) suggests drilling 2 small holes in the rotor, with which to hold the rotor firm or turn it using long nosed pliers or circlip pliers.
My question is where is the best position to drill the holes, at the top of the shoulder on the rotor or somewhere on the larger flat area which holds the magnets? it's probably fairly irrelivent but I don't want to cause any unnecessary imbalance in the rotor.
 
Well, I've made a couple of Hall-effect ignition rotors, but never drilled holes in them for the purpose of turning the things on the shaft. It must be a tight fit if you can't turn it with your fingers.

If you want maximum leverage with whatever tool you use, then drill them in the outer area where the magnets are. Make sure you avoid the magnet pockets though. If your tool won't reach in as far as the flange that holds the magnets, then drill them in the hub. In that case you need to be careful to avoid the grub screws.
 
Maybe a bit of thread lock on the grub screws when everything is in the final position? One of mine backed out over time until it protruded enough to destroy the hall effect board. Not pretty and the only time my bike has not made it home.
 
It's usually dead easy. Set the piston to TDC, rotate the ignition rotor until the LED on the pickup board goes out (or comes on, I can't remember which) then lock it in place with the grub screws. Job done. Easier than timing points ;)

If the rotor is too tight to turn by hand before you nip up the grub screws, I reckon I'd be rubbing back the ID of the rotor with emery paper.
 
When I fitted a Sachse to my RGS I found the rotor was stupidly tight on the shaft, which I wasn't particularly impressed with since both parts were supplied in the kit.
I used a brake cylinder hone until it was a nice fit.
 
I didn't drill any holes in the end, decided to gently rub back the inside of the rotor with 1200 wet and dry, spent 20 minutes doing that whilst testing the feel every now and again, eventuality it felt just about there, turning it slightly with my fingers and it jammed in place so tightly that I struggled to get it back off even with a pipe wrench.
So now slightly annoyed at having put tool jaw marks on the rotor, i got some 400 grit paper, rubbed out the marks, vigorously rubbed the shaft and internal of the rotor for a few minutes tried it and it turned perfectly.
Thus I reinforced the eternal question as to wether it's best to take the slow methodical approach to motorcycle maintenance to reduce any potential hasty mistakes, or by doing so your just increasing the amount of time availablt to f**k something up.
Lined up the marks as per instructions then tightened the grub screws.
Nows the moment of truth, to fire it up. Pressed the starter and presto it started and ran hugely better that with the old knackered pickups and rotted wires, even almost ticked over, if you count 2000 revs as ticking over, with only the occasional pop back through the exhausts.
I don't know if I should perhaps retard the ignition a degree or two, being as it has S1 Cams and Hi comp pistons, also the carp mixture will need a little fiddling as previously they had been adjusted to keep a poorly running engine going.
I really need to give it a run now before messing with to many settings, hopefully It will be less alarming to horses, children, car alarms and upset the local population than was previously the case.
 
Well, I've made a couple of Hall-effect ignition rotors, but never drilled holes in them for the purpose of turning the things on the shaft. It must be a tight fit if you can't turn it with your fingers.
has nothing to do with the fit of the rotor, more to do with making the job easy
when rotor is in position on the crank adapter so magnets are aligned then you have something like 4mm of rotor to grasp to turn the rotor into position which makes the job a bit delicate
by drilling a pair of holes in the face of the rotor and it does not really matter where you drill the dam holes it makes the job easier

on the Redax system we added a hub to the rotor which makes it far easier to position the rotor into the correct spot timing wise and it also means if the person doing the installation does not apply the recommended dab of Loctite to the grub screws as written in the instructions then when the grub screws do back out they will not destroy the triggers as they are no longer inline as is the case with the Sachse system
 

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When I fitted one to my race bike years ago, it didn't make sense either. I got the harsh words from Red and did exactly as it said in the manual / website. Dont forget the rotor has two directions, one is N/S the other side is S/N. Just fit it the correct way round, do as it says on the instructions, the led goes bright, you turn it further till it goes out then Lock the grub screws using the recommended Loctite (or preferably the Redax modded item) then put your tools away and forget the little bastard
mine even ticked over
 
on the Redax system we added a hub to the rotor which makes it far easier to position the rotor into the correct spot timing wise and it also means if the person doing the installation does not apply the recommended dab of Loctite to the grub screws as written in the instructions then when the grub screws do back out they will not destroy the triggers as they are no longer inline as is the case with the Sachse system
An excellent mod Red, making life easier (especially when the assembly needs to be removed) and more idiot proof :cool:
 
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