Speedo ring Suzuki wheel conversion

Location
Cotwolds
Needed to get the wheels off my Corsa for tyre change and noticed that the front wheel bearing were notchy - lhs with my new chinky bearing puller one minute - speedo side not so easy the modified speedo ring is mounted on a hub that obscures the bearing - this requires removal but it is on there big time with loctite or something - have used my wifes kitchen blow lamp and my 2000 heat gun but no dice - i had the ILOC club puller but in this case there is not the clearance under the speedo gear to use it - the gear obscures 4 small screws that allow you to remove the hub - i noticed the screws were all loose so i managed to manually get them out - replaced the bearing in 30 seconds but now getting the four screws tight is going to be a problem - any suggestions ?

i had wondered if i relieved part of the speedo with my dremel to give me access to the allen head clearly would work ? 2021-02-18 11.14.30.jpg2021-02-18 17.19.45.jpg2021-02-18 17.19.53.jpg
 
Two ideas spring to mind:

1: Grind an Allen Key down, to as close to the right angle as you can get it, and use that to tighten the screws. That'd be the easiest IMO.

2: Get a bearing puller that will fit behind the gear and a suitable packer to push the hub cap through ready, throw that lot in the freezer (in a poly bag to save upsetting SWMBO) overnight. Apply heat to the gear and see if you can pull it off that way.

Dremel to the gear will render it U/S.
 
Two ideas spring to mind:

1: Grind an Allen Key down, to as close to the right angle as you can get it, and use that to tighten the screws. That'd be the easiest IMO.

2: Get a bearing puller that will fit behind the gear and a suitable packer to push the hub cap through ready, throw that lot in the freezer (in a poly bag to save upsetting SWMBO) overnight. Apply heat to the gear and see if you can pull it off that way.

Dremel to the gear will render it U/S.
Yes the allen key could work - they are pretty hard but a cutting disc should go through one ? - there is bugger all room

The puller would need to be fairly special - it needs more heat for sure
 
After heating it up, take some cloth or leather to protect the gear ring and
try to turn it with grip- or locking pliers. Once it moves, you've won.

Ernesto
 
Hi Adam,
The gear is steel and the housing it sits on is alloy?
Then by heating the alloy will expand quicker than the steel.
One thought that comes to mind if you wish to separate the gear form its housing , place the gear in a vice and use a 'stepped ' sleeve to engage with the outer part of alloy housing. Would have to be stepped to miss the vice jaws. Then by hitting the sleeve, hopefully , they part company. Please ignore all this if I have mis understood what you are trying to do.:)
 
Right I just cut an Allan key with my dremel and I checked that I can successfully tighten the 4 Allan heads when required - only a 2 mm key so not a lot of torque required - bit of blue Hermatite - fortunately the speedo gear is in good nick - there was plenty of grease - I have dressed it up where I tried to rotate it - so thanks Hamish good plan

bearings should be here Saturday
 
61aBd3t5dkL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
Ball-end Hex Keys
 
inside bore of the adapter should be machined 0.15mm larger than the bearing outside diameter which allows the bearing to be removed and replaced without having to go through the drama that you just experienced
That is how I machine the conversion
 

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This one is a bit different Red, I use the bearing bore to locate/centralise the gear mount, thus it obstructs the bearing.

WARM the assembly to soften the Loctite, use the factory puller puller to seperate the parts. The crown gear has been modified to allow the puller to fit over it.

Please be carefull with the hex sockets, they slip quickly if the key doesn't fit snugly.

Reassemble with Loctite on the threads. If the screws need to be replaced, the heads have to be trimmed slightly to fit the brim.

piet
 
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Thanks Piet - I couldn’t use the puller on as the one from the club has larger ridges than the gap between the gear and alloy hub - so the circular pieces couldn’t
Come together squarely without damaging the gear - I tried heating with a heat gun and small blowtorch but no movement - however fortunately I don’t need to remove it now and I can re tighten the screws - I am just replacing the wheel bearings which is straight forward
 
Thanks Piet - I couldn’t use the puller on as the one from the club has larger ridges than the gap between the gear and alloy hub - so the circular pieces couldn’t
Come together squarely without damaging the gear - I tried heating with a heat gun and small blowtorch but no movement - however fortunately I don’t need to remove it now and I can re tighten the screws - I am just replacing the wheel bearings which is straight forward
Strange, I machine the crown gears to fit my OE puller. I actually have 3, I haven't noticed any inconsistancies in those, all fit fine.

piet
 
I guess that's a problem with borrowed tools.
With my own pullers, I frequently have to modify them for specific jobs. Bit I don't suppose the club would be impressed if you start sculpting their tools with a grinder.
Yes - I think this is the case 😀 - would need a couple of mm machined off


@sfcpiet the club one is also a 750 one - I will measure the jaw width for information
 
The factory puller was the same for all models, just that it didn't work on the stock cast wheels.

Jaw width? The factory puller comprises of 2 half-collars and a surrounding ring that holds the collars around the gear. The half-collars have ridges on the inside at both edges, one to grip under the crown gear, the other to engage with the puller spindle plate.

piet
 
I improved the functioning of my puller by simply using a large hose clamp around the jaws to aid strong contact with whatever it is I'm removing.
 
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