More finds from inside the SF1 engine

I have had the same experience with all motors made so far (> 25).

What also helps against wear is to attach a small permanent magnet at the bottom of the baffle plates under the crankshaft or inside the filter (sticks by itself).
This is where chips (e.g. from the gearbox) and abrasion collect. This is then no longer in circulation with the oil.

Thomas aus LAU
I'd love to see a nylon-magnet! ;)
 
I think the problem with any filter on a 750 is lack of initial pressure which to Force the oil through the filter media.
The fact that the real early bikes had a much finer mesh screen which the factory changed for a courser mesh puts me off a restrictive filter. I think keep putting fresh oil in and do hot oil changes is best idea.
 
Joking apart nylon rope floats so you may find an actual chip of nylon would be carried around in the oil as opposed to settling in the sump, I don’t know. We need to grind up a cam chain jockey and stick it in some oil.
True that. Let's not forget the assorted gears in the transmission that play their part in grinding up whatever plastic particles into a pulp....
I'd be much more concerned about an overdose of silicon gasket that finds its way into oil galleries, if someone is a bit too fond of that stuff. The tiny amount of nylon from the tensioner is a non-issue for me, really.

Full flow filters were a bit of a novelty on bikes back then. You would certainly put it between the pump and the main oil galleries, not on the suction side of the pump. Give that Laverdas run roller bearings the pump is set up for low pressure / high volume. For a full flow paper filter it would have to be set up completely differently and I sort of understand they never bothered until much later.

Just for giggles I looked up the density for nylon..... it's 1,15. Oil has about 0,85... :unsure:
Tom
 
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I have seen twins with a filter but you need to tap into the oil gallery after the pump. Filters on suction are not a goer. I have an idea to use the takeoffs for the oil cooler I once had fitted which was totally unnecessary. It could tuck in beside the genny, a bit of a job to make it nice and neat. My 10mm oil pump would have no problem at all.
 
I have seen twins with a filter but you need to tap into the oil gallery after the pump. Filters on suction are not a goer. I have an idea to use the takeoffs for the oil cooler I once had fitted which was totally unnecessary. It could tuck in beside the genny, a bit of a job to make it nice and neat. My 10mm oil pump would have no problem at all.
Agreed, just be sure to set up your limiter valve accordingly.
 
Small particles are centrifuged in the slingers.
No problem until the engine has done a couple of hundred thousand.
If you want to visualise what comes off the tensioners, put diesel oil in your engine and after the recommended service interval, look at what comes out.

Exon Valdez looks like ecological well doing in comparison.

Paul
 
Yes well.
Seriously: just make a wild guess about the cc's of plastic that came off. Then the litres of oil in there, and that would have been changed several times.
A complete non-issue. Replace, forget, be happy.
 
I'd love to see a nylon-magnet! ;)
No problem - if you want to filter metal, the north-pole of the magnet should show to the right side of the motor.
If you want to filter nylon, you only have to turn the north-pole to the front of the bike.

Seriously: if you've ever seen a magnet like this after one season of use, you will definitely not want to do without it in the future.
Even a fit bike that goes well, has metallic abrasion. Just look at the pitting on a well-used gearbox.
If the metal residues are "caught" on the magnet, they no longer cause any wear.

Thomas aus LAU
 
No problem - if you want to filter metal, the north-pole of the magnet should show to the right side of the motor.
If you want to filter nylon, you only have to turn the north-pole to the front of the bike.

Seriously: if you've ever seen a magnet like this after one season of use, you will definitely not want to do without it in the future.
Even a fit bike that goes well, has metallic abrasion. Just look at the pitting on a well-used gearbox.
If the metal residues are "caught" on the magnet, they no longer cause any wear.

Thomas aus LAU
Completely right, the debris makes for a true hedgehog of steel swarf on the magnet.
I fit magnetic sump plugs as standard on all my engines, transmissions, rear axles (if not already there ex-factory). They are so cheap and effective. At every oil change; inspect and clean.

another Thomas, uit Leiden
 
I'd be much more concerned about an overdose of silicon gasket that finds its way into oil galleries, if someone is a bit too fond of that stuff.
Tom
Avoid useing silicon! E.g. Loctite 510 is an anaerobic sealant, which cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal. So useing too much sealant is no problem at all. Beside you will get an 100% non leaking motor.
Loctite 510
For covers you will reopen from time to time, you should use a non hardening sealant like Teroson Fluid D.
Teroson Fluid D

Thomas aus LAU
 
I fit magnetic sump plugs as standard on all my engines, transmissions, rear axles (if not already there ex-factory). They are so cheap and effective.
another Thomas, uit Leiden
But with my 750th´s from time to time i drive on rough roads with stones, steps,.... There you have the danger, that your magnetic screw which is going down another 10-15 mm may be "beheaded" on such terrain. Bob Marley would singing "No oil in motor, much cry."

Thomas aus LAU
 
But with my 750th´s from time to time i drive on rough roads with stones, steps,.... There you have the danger, that your magnetic screw which is going down another 10-15 mm may be "beheaded" on such terrain. Bob Marley would singing "No oil in motor, much cry."

Thomas aus LAU
??????? 10-15mm less ground clearance? The magnet is on the inside, in the core of the plug. No extra length outside.
Something like this: https://www.ebay.nl/itm/Magnetic-En...665174?hash=item2646263096:g:W6MAAOSwTmVfYayy

Tom
 
OK, the flange can be countersunk, but the head still looks out, right? The solutions I saw were all elevated.
Is there a photo somewhere?

Thomas aus LAU
There are low(er) profile ones as well, just a bit more expensive. Identical to OEM so no loss of ground clearance.

If ripping out a drain plug really is a major concern, get a sump guard like you would fit on rally cars or Dakar bikes...

gr
Tom
 
Does anyone fit proper oil filters to these bikes?
Yes, it has been done. Necessitates an external oil take-off and return though. Not sure I'd be comfortable with anything more than the stock strainer before the pump pick-up.

piet
 
Round speaker magnet in mine. I have no qualms taking the plate out and doing a thorough job of it, no more messy than an oil filter on bikes that have one, even with removing my two into one which only takes a few minutes.
 

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It also polarises the molecular structure of the oil and amplifies it's effect, in a similar way to those fuel polarisers that were so popular a few years ago, miraculous!
I talked to a guy with a BMW some years ago who had just ridden over the step of a low gutter to park it, the sump plug had punched straight up into the sump, he was pretty distraught, had just bought the bike.
 
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