Rear wheel with rotor brake substitute

Chuck3CL said:
We better let NDCustomz.com know!
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Good idea, their Mech Engineer must be sick of equating brake force to load etc etc.

Presumably, the 5 pot brakes are to allow the rider to pull up under engine pressure for some obscure reason. Hard on chains though.
There is no way under throttle off braking any other than a single pot would be more than adequate, when the rear tyre is 2" off the ground.
 
chrisk said:
Good idea, their Mech Engineer must be sick of equating brake force to load etc etc.

Presumably, the 5 pot brakes are to allow the rider to pull up under engine pressure for some obscure reason. Hard on chains though.
There is no way under throttle off braking any other than a single pot would be more than adequate, when the rear tyre is 2" off the ground.
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That's right Chris, these stunt guys love their mono's. And did you see the size of that gazillion tooth rear sprocket in the photo with the 7 pot brakes?
 
martymoose said:
Split pin missing from the axle nut, rego fail.......
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I got failed for that once because I'd used a castellated nut on an axle without a split pin. But the axle had never been drilled for split pins. It was a replacement nut that I'd scrounged from a wrecker because some DPO had (for some unknown reason) pounded the bejesus out of the original nut (and axle) with a hammer. The axle thread cleaned up OK but I had to find a new nut. I chose the castellated one from the bike wrecker because it was the same spanner size as the original. The castellations didn't boither me, but they bothered the roadworthy inspector. He said that a castellated nut must have a pin.

I couldn't drill the axle for a pin because there was barely enough length of axle sticking out through the nut. So all I did to fix it was put the nut in the lathe and turn the castellations off it. I reinstalled the nut the other way around so you couldn't see the freshly machined face. Took it back to the inspector and told him I found the original nut. He then signed it off as OK.
 
Latest KLR wheel prototype:
Two steel rods, (tension, compression, one of each), steel cross-axle arm, 4 Rose joints, five M8 bolts grade 8.8 in shear.
Tested by hammering the rear brake at speed coming down Arthur's Seat (10% decline grade), gnats hair off tyre traction break.
Any more hardware and it will start looking like a BMW, or worse, a H.D.!
PXL_20211008_064733628.jpgPXL_20211008_073459961.jpg
 
(Knew you would understand the test run down Arthurs Seat, Quentin!)

Yep, gave up waiting for the end of lock down to buy some metal so I sacrificed my 'G' clamp tool to make that steel flat bar - clamp went to a good home.

Costs AUD:
2nd hand wheel = 250
2nd hand (as new) Caliper mount, caliper and pads=72
New rotor=75
Rose joints=35
New bearings=43
Bits=15
Total=AUD 490

New tyre=180
Total with new tyre = AUD 670.
Cheap thrills.
Forum feedback comments=priceless!😉
 
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Chuck3CL said:
I sacrificed my 'G' clamp tool to make that steel flat bar - clamp went to a good home.
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With a few further mods to the clamp, Chuckles could have had the first Laverda motorcycle with a parking brake. Read: ‘Hand brake’ in Australian, and I don’t mean the other Australian term for a wife.
 
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chrisk said:
With a few further mods to the clamp, Chuckles could have had the first Laverda motorcycle with a parking brake. Read: ‘Hand brake’ in Australian, and I don’t mean the other Australian term for a wife.
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Havnt heard that term in a while,
When mobile phones were new and every one was getting custom ringtones :rolleyes: a few of us thought a good
ring tone would be the sound of a handbrake being pulled on, with its ratchet at full noise....
You could assign it to your partners phone number, never got far on that one though....
:unsure: :)
 
You forgot to include the G-clamp in your cost breakdown.

Excellent bit of over-engineering. I reckon you'll be able to roll down Arthur's Seat backwards and do a reverse stoppie :)
Makes adjusting the chain a bit more work though.
 
You're right there Cam, the words "brick shit house" come to mind as in " built like a..."
I used the rose joints so I could adjust the chain, it is a little extra hassle but still easy. Thought about using turnbuckle adjusters with left/right thread but hard to find around here.
After all the flak, err... constructive criticism😉, on the forum I figured I better over-engineer it, add redundancy, and hopefully eliminate any single-point-of-failure. No doubt someone will still find something anyway.
Like....it's not orange.
And 30 y.o. used G-clamp, add $10. It would have been $15 if it was orange.
Next stress test, Mt Wellington, no front brakes.
 
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Good stuff, Chuck. I like your sense of humour and good grace in the face of a mountain of engineering advice!!

I've been in a car going up Arthurs and am yet to cycle up it, but can well imagine it tested the rear brake to the extent required to pass muster!!
 
Now I'm wondering whether the braking load is carried by one rod or two. They'd have to be adjusted to precisely the same length for the load to be evenly distributed.

I gather from your mention of the turnbuckle alternative that all of your rose joints have a right hand thread, which gives an incremental adjustment of half a thread pitch as you turn each rose joint through 180°.

You can get rose joints (AKA Heim joints) with a left hand thread. That would give you the turnbuckle style continuous adjustment. Might be something to think about if you do any further development, especially if detaching the struts every time you want to adjust the chain is giving you the shits.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Good stuff, Chuck. I like your sense of humour and good grace in the face of a mountain of engineering advice!!

I've been in a car going up Arthurs and am yet to cycle up it, but can well imagine it tested the rear brake to the extent required to pass muster!!
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Yep, Arthurs Seat is a favourite of mine.
I used it often for hill climb training when I was full-on cycling (road bike pushie, not moto). Its a bastard of a climb.

Great memory too--in Feb 2016 I was carrying pillion, a photographer up the final 3 laps of the Herald-Sun Tour on Arthurs Seat, riding along-side Chris Froome (4 time Tour de France winner) as he won the event for Sky Team.
You can imagine the demand on clutch/throttle/balance control needed that day with cyclists all around, spectators jumping out and the photographer hanging off to get the shots. Used my other triple, the Tiger 800XC that day. Memorable for me, but certainly not as much as it was for Chris!
 
Dellortoman said:
Now I'm wondering whether the braking load is carried by one rod or two. They'd have to be adjusted to precisely the same length for the load to be evenly distributed.

I gather from your mention of the turnbuckle alternative that all of your rose joints have a right hand thread, which gives an incremental adjustment of half a thread pitch as you turn each rose joint through 180°.

You can get rose joints (AKA Heim joints) with a left hand thread. That would give you the turnbuckle style continuous adjustment. Might be something to think about if you do any further development, especially if detaching the struts every time you want to adjust the chain is giving you the shits.
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Very observant Cam, yes, if they are adjusted evenly with no slack one will be in tension, the other in compression, a bit of beneficial redundancy there. Because of the angle of the flat bar though, the top is 200mm, the lower 180mm.
I wanted them to meet at the Laverda welded bracket on the swing-arm for attachment, so the length is different, and also the flat bar can't fit at a perpendicular angle to them because of the caliper position constraints.
Observant again, a half-turn is the finest adjustment that I can make. The two joints are 90 deg aligned so that helps.
But setup is easy. I get the chain/wheel distance set right but leave the axle nut just snug so I can rotate the brake mount. Then set the two joints at the swing arm bracket.
The local bearing shop had the left hand Heim joints, but no left hand/right hand rod. Do you know if the left/right thread rods are readily available?
On the plus side, like the new wheel, this brake arrangement weighs less, and takes up less space than the old Laverda Brembo setup.
So, maybe move to the turnbuckles if I can source them.
 
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