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For Sale / Re: 81 Jota
« Last post by Grant on Today at 12:53 »
I know what goes into a full restoration.
This price (equivalent of 20k in GBP) is what you have to pay for a series 2 Jota.
Not according to the owner/pilot - accelerating gently from 60 to 70mph (110kph) when it went onto two cylinders - but still ran....!! :o

And THAT is the problem.  Instead of shutting down, he allowed the bits to fly around and destroy everything they could reach.

One second of running at 3000rpm means another 50 chances of hitting something with the remains of the conrod.  Coasting with the engine running for 500-odd yards from 60mph means another 30 secs of destruction... wrong in every which way you look at it.

For Sale / Re: 81 Jota
« Last post by Lav the impala on Today at 11:47 »

you may remember this thread started by ryan84,94325.0.html

read the thread and you may understand the asking price, never met the man but he has done a great restoration, read the link.
I would guess that this happened at higher revs ...

majority of conrod failures seem to be at low to mid range revs
though I do have one Series 2 engine here never to be repaired that destroyed itself at 8,500 rpm, has holes in the engine cases at every point of the compass  :o

I would guess that this happened at higher revs ...
Not according to the owner/pilot - accelerating gently from 60 to 70mph (110kph) when it went onto two cylinders - but still ran....!! :o
You asked steve..

Here is a link to a FaceBook page i've created for my Bimota's, i use it mainly as a blog to document what i'm working on.

Ive owned the SB6 for about 12 years, and the YB5 coming up to 2 years.

I've also setup a Bimota YB5 page and group, trying to document how many still are around.

I would guess that this happened at higher revs ...
Hi Steve, Hmm, YB6... i'd like one of those, and a DB1.... so many bikes, so little shed space!! :)

No problem, the DB1 was unfortunately sold quite some years back, and the YB6 is in the lounge room! :)

My first YB5 is an Australian delivered one that i got from NSW, my second one is now in a shipping container from Japan, it is due at the end of January. My agent seems pretty switched on, and we are doing due diligence in removing asbestos. So i'm hoping both bikes will sail through as there will be supporting documentation with each bike..

I really like the tube frame Bims, YB5 with those lovely 18" Campags is a particularly good looking bike in my view and I love that wrap around frame.  They are now the hot ticket for classic racing, by some sleight of hand they qualify for Period 5 (pre 82).

Thanks for the info on the indicators, they look like DB1 indicators, and it seems many Laverdas also used, them, i know in Bimota circles, they are scarce as rocking horse poo, and i believe they are very fragile, so i'll ask if they can remove them and put them in a cardboard box. Is it just the seat pad that needs removing? How is that done? Sorry for the basic questions :)

No, the originals are unique to the RGS (and never-produced Morini Turbo) and these days very rare.  A good idea to pack them carefully if they're original.  DB1 blinkers were smaller with more of a 'stalk' section whereas the RGS ones sort of stick straight out.  The mid section is a softish rubber and has two slots in it.  The rears should be longer than the fronts but the same style.

Hope the import goes smoothly, post up when you've got the new toys!  Actually, post up a pic of the others anyhow. :)

Technical / Re: Starter Relay Fuse.
« Last post by Vince on Today at 09:29 »
I bought 4 of 10 20 30 fuses, I supose I will try the 20 first and see what happens.The origanal fuse went when I bumped the live horn feed with the key on. It all works now with a 20 fuse installed, even both horns as well.
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